Fun at the Faire

Last weekend I went to the Colonial Faire & Muster of Fyfe and Drums in Sudbury at the Wayside Tavern. Alas, the event is no longer posted on their website but I gather it is an annual event hosted by these folks. I’m not a guns-n-war sort of person, no matter what era, but I went because some friends of mine were demonstrating the flax to cloth process in their period costumes with their antique tools.

Gina Gerhard talks to visitors, while demonstrating her lovely set of hetchels (or hatchels or hackles):

Gina's hetchels


Cathy Goodman demonstrates spinning flax. Too bad her hat is hiding her awesome spectacles in this shot. It was very sunny and hot that day, and wide-brimmed hats were a smart call, as well as an accurate historical detail.

Cathy spinning

And Diane Howes demonstrates weaving on her antique loom with hand-tied string heddles. The warp and weft are singles linen. In this photo you can see some samples of the cloth she is reproducing.

Diane's linen cloth

And here’s a slightly better view of Diane at work:

Diane weaving

Diane uses a temple and sizes her warp to prevent broken ends. I understand that this is traditional, especially when working with singles linen. I have never tried either, I’m sorry to say.

I have only woven with singles linen once and didn’t have any problems. I *have* had problems with broken ends on my 40/2 linen bookmarks in the past, but recently I’ve had success with reducing the tension and advancing the warp frequently (every inch and a half) to stay in the “sweet spot” where the angle of the beater and the height of the shed create the least abrasion on the warp.

It was very fun to see these fine folks in their element on a fantastically beautiful day. I so much appreciate people who keep old skills alive and are willing to share their knowledge and experience.

And the drive wasn’t half-bad either–gorgeous foliage through Petersham and Barre. I ran over a squirrel on Rt. 2 which was inauspicious, but the rest of the trip went smoothly.


Japanese Indigo Is Flowering

Way back on Memorial Day weekend, I was lucky enough to find some Japanese indigo seedlings for sale at the Massachusetts Sheep and Woolcraft Fair. I had been wanting to grow this plant, Polygonum tinctorium, for many years, but it’s not that easy to find seeds and we don’t have a good set-up for growing seedlings anyway here at the apartment. I had never come across seedlings before. In a fit of excitement, I bought out the vendor’s entire supply (11 plants) and planted them in the front bed at my dye and fiber plant garden at Bramble Hill Farm with maximum southern exposure.

They were nibbled by rabbits in June and July. I covered them with row-cover to keep the critters away, and they bounced back from that, thankfully. I also had the kids in my summer camp spray them with a chili pepper solution for good measure (along with the orange cosmos, which were suffering the same predations). After the plants got a little bigger, the leaves curled up and just seemed very narrow and spindly. I watered the plants a lot, since I read that they like humidity and water, as well as heat. But for much of the summer I was worried that the plants were unhappy because we had an unusually cool, dry summer this year.

Here’s a photo of some of the plants on July 31st. You can see them in between the marigolds in front. They were pretty small, even smaller than the marigolds, which were not very big yet.

July 31 wide viewYou can also see that we already pulled up the flax (the empty bed in the back), that the weld hasn’t bolted yet (short rosettes on the far right), and that I haven’t put in the swamp milkweed yet (empty bed behind the amsonia and calendula). Early days in the dye and fiber garden even though it was well past mid-summer.

Here’s a close up of the Japanese indigo plants on July 31st.July 31 2014 Japanese indigo

I think the curling leaves must be a feature of the plant. They never flattened out, even in hot, rainy weather.

At last in August the plants began to look lush and I figured they were ready to harvest. The very week that I was planning to pick the leaves for a vat, I noticed pink flower buds! Here are some photos of the buds on August 18th.

Aug 18 2014 Japanese indigo bud

Aug 18 2014 Japanese indigo flower

Aug 18 2014 Japanese indigo buds

According to Rita Buchanan, my go-to source for growing dye plants, they do not produce much color once the plants have begun to bloom. So, I decided to let them bloom and hopefully set seed.

Here they were on September 8th. The flowers have opened up and there are a lot more of them.

Sept 8 2014 sprig

Sept 8 2014 flowersSept 8 2014 leaves and flowersThey set seed late, apparently, and I may still have to build some protection around them if we get early frosts. Tonight it’s supposed to be in the low 40s, which is early for such cool weather around here. There are beehives right next to my garden, so hopefully I will get some seeds and can grow out more plants in the spring. I may have to impose on someone for greenhouse space, but it’s exciting to imagine that I might have a significant crop next summer.

I Am Pleased With My Linen Yarns

This is just a short post to say that I’m pleased with my stash of linen yarns. Here they are:

linen yarnsThe pink colors at the top come from madder roots, and also the little orange skein on the left. The browns are from black walnut. The light orange in the center is from orange cosmos. The blues are from woad. The greens are from weld with woad on top. The yellows are from weld. This modest-sized basket represents a ton of work, and I am very satisfied!

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Weld is Flowering and Proliferating

Weld is a biennial. The Latin name for weld is Reseda luteola. Luteolin is the molecule in weld that makes yellow. A plant that is a biennial typically lives for two years, and only flowers and sets seed in the second year. These weld plants were planted this spring, but as of July 18th several of them have already sent up tall stalks. They look suspiciously like they are starting to flower. This does happen sometimes, but it is still a little puzzling to me.

Below is a view of the weld bed with all the tall plants.

bolting weld

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Flax Dressing Photos

After I wrote about our gloriously low-humidity weather, which provided the perfect climate for dressing flax, I realized I had not included any photos. Here are some illustrations of my modified “hardware store tools” technique, including a new innovation since last time I posted about using this method.

The hardware store tools that I use are a paintbrush cleaning tool, a 3-inch-wide joint compound knife, a wooden cutting board, and a flick carder designed for wool. And a dust mask. And gloves. The gloves are new, but my hands have been a lot more sensitive this summer.

I’ve been dressing largely under-retted flax which has already been broken with a flax brake. The bundles I made to dry and ret the flax are too large to handle all at once using this method, so I separate them into thirds or even fourths. The reason I think the flax is under-retted is that the cuticle, or skin, of the stalk is really hard to get off, and the fibers stick together in ribbons. The lighter colored, papery-looking pieces below are the cuticle.

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Asclepias incarnata and Amsonia tabernaemontana

I wrote earlier this year that I wanted to add Amsonia tabernaemontana and Asclepias incarnata to my fiber and dye plant garden at Bramble Hill Farm. They are both bast fiber plants native to North America. Bast fibers are found in the stems of a plant (rather than around the seeds, like cotton, for example). I was introduced to the fiber potential of amsonia by fellow flax and linen study group member, Carolyn Wetzel, who brought some gorgeous, creamy-colored fibers to a meeting one night. A. incarnata was the “mystery cordage plant” from my sister’s parking lot that she helped me identify in 2012. I have finally managed to acquire both plants! Continue reading

Low Humidity is Good for Dressing Flax

We are being visited by some gloriously cool, dry weather here in Amherst. The humidity has been relatively low for the past several days, so I’ve taken the opportunity to chip away at processing (otherwise known as “dressing”) my enormous back-log of flax.

I’ve been growing flax since 2004, and I’ve grown some every summer since then (except for one year). I have yet to spin any of my own fiber, mind you, let alone weave it. Very slow cloth. After all this time, the part of the process I still find the most difficult is retting. Continue reading

First Woad Vat of 2014

Due to one thing and another, I am not growing a lot of woad this year. I’m a little bit sad about it, but there it is. Nonetheless, I ran my first woad vat of the summer on Friday August 8th and had some interesting results. In the morning I picked 3 and a half pounds of leaves, which I did not expect to make a very strong vat.

Some blue color appeared in the stems as I ripped up the leaves, which was a good sign.

blue woad stems

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Marigolds at the Massachusetts Sheep and Woolcraft Fair

I discovered something interesting about marigolds at Mass. Sheep and Wool. In a nutshell, an acidic dyebath yielded olive green whereas an alkaline dyebath yielded yellow.

Here’s how I found out. I made the marigold dyebath during the demonstration on Saturday May 24th. Here’s a photo of the marigolds in the dyebath:

marigolds in dyebath

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Sunday at Sheep and Wool

Well, today turned out to be a gorgeous day with just a couple showers. No thunderstorms or hail, thank goodness! In this post I’m just going to follow up on the St-John’s-wort dyebath, and show some photos of my set-up in the pavilion at the Cummington Fairgrounds.

First, here are some of the samples I brought to show. In the basket on the left are yarns that are dyed with plants you have to grow or purchase, and which don’t grow wild around here. These include madder, orange cosmos, weld, purple basil, Lady’s bedstraw, and marigolds. In the basket on the right are yarns that are dyed with a woad vat to make blue or green (woad-blue on top of yarns previously dyed yellow). The pinkish colors are from exhausted woad leaves, second year leaves, and my sole attempt at a urine vat.

cultivated color

Below is a basket full of colors that can be obtained from wild plants and umbilicate lichen. Wild plants represented here include yarrow, Queen Anne’s lace, goldenrod, tansy, wild mustard, yellow sorrel, sheep’s sorrel, black walnut, St-John’s-wort flowers, poke berries, purple loosestrife, and northern bedstraw. All the pinks are from umbilicate lichen vats.

wild colors


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